FAQ's about Dock-it Launcher
Will the metal spring-clips scratch or damage my boat?
Through all of our product research, development, and field use we have had zero reports any kind of damage from the spring clips that we use in our kits; from any of our field testers or from use on our own fiberglass boat. Here is a link to a brief video that addresses the spring-clips we use: https://youtu.be/XaCsnDplbSQ
- What forward connection point should I use if I have a rail and a cleat that are both located in the “Best” zone? Either connection will work. If the measurement distance between the two forward anchor points dictates a different sized kit to purchase, then use the measurement for the least-forward connection point and order the kit for the shorter length – this will allow for being able to have ample tension to leave the main cord connected to either point while you are on the water (so that it will be ready to use when you return to the dock).
- How do I create a pass-through point with the steel ring and Gear Tie accessory? Connect the steel ring to a stationary point above the gunnel using the included GearTie - See the “How to and other uses” video on the home page.
- What if I do not have a forward connection point on my boat? It would be suggested to install a rail or cleat on the boats gunnel and locate it in the “Best” zone. If the location in the "best zone" falls between two kit sizes, then install the point slightly further forward so that the larger kit would be used - Having the longer cord (kit) will allow for more stretch in the main cord.
- What if I do not have a rear cleat or anything else to use to secure a pass-through point? It would be suggested to install a cleat that has a large enough gap between the base of the cleat and the gunnel so that the main cord can pass underneath it (See the “How to and other uses” video on the home page).
- How should I connect the rear securing loop on a dock that is short? The rear loop should be connected to an anchor point and then the main cord line can be shortened by adding extra wraps around a dock post/piling/cleat. If the dock has a small enough cleat on its base you could also connect the rear loop of the long cord directly to the cleat (without adding one of the large circular loops). * If you do connect directly to the dock with the rear loop from the main cord, make sure that the sliding loop is shortened so that when the boat rests against the pier it will have even pressure from both the front and rear connections.
- What is the load rating of the different shock cords? Shock cords do not carry a “working load” rating. The cords will stretch up to 100% of their “at rest” length. Shock cords are subject to heat, cold, sun, moisture, and overuse, etc…, so the 100% figure can vary a bit but it’s at least a good initial gauge to refer to. Shock cords have no established reliable break strengths as there are too many variables involved. You MUST inspect your devices prior to each use and if there is any degradation with any component it should not be used until the compromised device(s) are replaced (contact us regarding a replacement device).
- Can I use one of the U-bolts on my transom (used for the trailer tie-down straps) as a pass-through point? It would be possible but not suggested. The main cord would have to rub across the edge of the transom and this will prevent the cord from freely stretching and the rubbing across the edge of the transom could compromise the integrity of the cord. It would be suggested to install a cleat that has a large enough gap between the base of the cleat and the gunnel so that the main cord can pass through it – (See the “How to and other uses” video on the home page). This cleat should be installed 6” (or more) forward of the transom.
- How will I know the best depth to back my trailer into? Every launch is different so it can vary. A good general visual is to note how high on your trailer fender the water level is when the rear of the boat begins to float. For most trailers, the rear of the boat will start to float when the water is near the top of the fender - See the “How to and other uses” video on the home page.
- I have a roller trailer. How do the instructions differ from having a bunk style trailer? The instructions for a roller trailer will be very similar in that you will want to back down to the depth where the rear of boat is near floating, hook up the Dock-It Launcher devices, and then un-latch (reverse your winch) and slowly back-winch the boat down the trailer. The boat will likely start rolling down the trailer until it is stopped by the water pressure on the transom. From there you will unhook the winch strap and then release the boat completely into the water by either giving it a light push-off, or if it is too heavy, then slowly back down the ramp a bit deeper to complete the launch.
- How long will the devices last? The devices MUST BE inspected prior to every use. If there are any noticed compromises of the cords, the spring-clips, or the other devices, they must be pulled out of service immediately and be replaced (contact us about replacement devices). YOU MUST HAVE proof of purchase and provide a picture of the damaged item(s) to obtain replacement items. There is a limit of 1 long cord, 2 loops, 2 spring clips, and 1 steel ring that can be purchased as replacement items. The Gear Ties by Nite-Ize must be purchased direct (or from a retailer) since our agreement with Nite-Ize allows for using their product strictly in our complete Dock-It Launcher kits. Nite-Ize website address https://www.niteize.com/collection/Gear-Tie.asp
**In no event shall Dock-It Launcher, LLC be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special consequential damages, to property or life, whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of our products. By using this site, you acknowledge that you have read the Disclaimer and that you accept and will be bound by the terms hereof.